Today was an interesting day- when we first left for our first venture into Johannesburg to tour the Constitutional Court, I was expecting something very different from what we experienced. I was anticipating the hustle and bustle that is usually seen in American government buildings, with something constantly going on and many people purposefully headed somewhere. The prison was not something I had connected with the Court, although it probably should have rung a bell from reading the Mandela autobiography.
Jail tours, no matter how well-created they are (and this one was the best I’ve ever been on) can never completely convey to a visitor the horrendous feeling of being locked away with your thoughts and under oppressive, abusive rule, but this one seemed to rise above this fact by using prisoner’s direct accounts of what happened to describe the situation.
I am always awestruck at the way that people persevere through inequality and horrendous conditions- the tour of the prison could perhaps be compared to my tour of Dachau, a former prison camp in Germany.
As we ended our prison half of the tour and continued into the constitutional court, the guide mentioned at every turn the ways in which the prison’s building materials, as well as themes of unity had been incorporated into literally every aspect of the new building. Bricks from the old prison were used in the courtroom, and everything was symbolic, down to the lack of mortar between the bricks representing the passing of freedom easily into the lives of the people.
After lunch, when we got to go the University of Witwaterswand, it felt like we had walked through a time warp back to the states. The number of white people we were seeing increased drastically, and the quality of the buildings, sidewalks, even gardens were far more reminiscent of a European campus than what I expected of Johannesburg. The ethnic groupings seemed to be in mixed groups of friends amidst all non-whites, but white students appeared isolated in their own social pockets. It amazes me how the more I learn about Apartheid, the more integrated and successful the United States seems to be at combating racism, although it is still evident.
Walking to the shop with Zama on the first day, I was told about how romantic relationships between white and black Africans are developing and changing, and other examples of how racism was still apparent in his every day life. I was slightly taken aback- I hadn’t expected the stories and effects of Apartheid to come forth so readily, but it is truly a part of how the country is operating and trying to advance itself today. Zama told me stories of Afrikaners at his University were about to be expelled for racist actions, but were allowed to graduate and stay at the school because black Africans deemed the punishment too harsh. Zama reasoned, “That is their future, and we do not want to take away their future.” I am struck time and time again by the ways in which bit by bit, people are moving closer towards equality and respect, even in small ways like Zama’s story. In every Apartheid tale we hear, there seems to be a desire to move forward as a united country, versus a bitterness that I would expect, at least on a personal level. It is extremely challenging to forgive grievances as horrendous as those from Apartheid, and I think that this alone demands a level of respect from the international community. I am appalled by the actions of these people, and it almost feels embarrassing to me as well to possibly be associated with this kind of behavior because of my skin color.
I like how straightforward the Africans seem to be in dealing with the problems that their country faces. Racism and Apartheid’s effects are discussed openly with the intent of reaching an understanding of the situations at hand, as well as how to improve them. We passed a PSA billboard today that read “If you see a water main break, report it. Don’t waste fresh water.” Messages are conveyed simply, honestly, and accurately- and always attempt to identify the problem and fix it. I get the impression that there are few problems you can bring to the table without getting the help of the people around you in fixing it or finding a solution.
I have been struck here thus far by an endless and enduring positive attitude of the residents of Soweto. As we were on our way to the museum this morning, Chris commented on the seeming impossibility of Johannesburg finishing all the construction and road work that was slowing us on our way before the World Cup began. Chris said, “How are they going to finish all of this? There’s only twenty days or something until the World Cup, right? Our driver Patrick, a native of Soweto, simply smiled and replied, “Yes, but a lot can happen in 20 days.” I’m looking forward to the rest of our stay in comfortable and homey Soweto, and to more of the smiling faces and enthusiasm that greet us each day we are here.
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